58 Moving quickly in the mountains is a thing of joy, sometimes a necessity, but when leading on bold granite slabs with quirky insecure climbing it often proves to be challenging. Mourne-like rounded granite flutings lead worryingly above ledges to a drilled peg, which Tim had clipped above his head. Tim’s quite tall (as was the first ascensionist, we later learn). Moments like this feel a bit like a showdown at dusk; staring down the approaching runner (no matter how poor a placement it may be), you can’t rush, but if you don’t make a move soon, it might be too late. Luckily, I’m wearing my head torch. Trust the smear, stand up, lock off in balance, breathe, peg clipped, step back down and a world of possibility suddenly opens up. By the top of the third pitch, the team reunite on a small ledge and take in the view. The Alerce trees, like matchsticks, glitter in the sunlight far below, La Junta campsite looks a long way off, nestled below the snowy cumbres, and it’s only approaching midday. We decide to abseil down and look for more new route options. After walking around in a circle, somewhat accidentally, for a couple of hours we spy a line, immediately left of Alandalaca, which looks too good to be true – Pictured this page: Kirsten Kremer below Trinidad Sur. Alandalaca takes a line on the left side of the buttress. Photo: Kevin Kilroy MOUNTAIN LOG COCHAMÓ EXPEDITION
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