Mountain Log Summer 2025

MOUNTAIN LOG COCHAMÓ EXPEDITION 55 On November 29th, 2024, Mike ‘Twid’ Turner and Kevin Kilroy began a 24-day journey to attempt a new big wall rock climb in Chile, South America. The expedition would be based in Northern Patagonia in the world-famous granite mecca of Cochamó Valley, which is currently at risk due to an unprotected 133,000-hectare private property at its heart. Twid, who currently lives in Switzerland and works as an IFMGA Mountain Guide, is a highly experienced big wall climber and mountaineer, having established new routes all around the world, including on several previous trips to South America. Kevin lives in Northern Ireland and works as a mountaineering and climbing instructor and has been climbing for 19 years, completing new routes at home and abroad. Kevin and Twid teamed up with American climbers Kirsten Kremer and Tim Stephens to travel to Cochamó. This article describes their expedition, starting with an early rise on Day 5, with the first trip from base camp. * * * * * * 3.30am, Day 5. The synthetic rustle of sleeping bags and the squeak of eagerly inflated Thermarests, mixed with a chorus of zips, slice the pre-dawn silence amongst the trees in La Junta campsite, Cochamó. Jetboils try hard to roar through the nippy night air and deliver some not really needed hot brews. Pictured this page: La Junta campsite with the 1,000m granite wall of Cerro La Junta in the background. Photo: Kevin Kilroy Previous page: Twid seconding pitch 6 of EZ Does It (E1, 455m), Trinidad Norte. Photo: Kevin Kilroy

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