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Dalkey Quarry Update

27 June 2010
 

Climbers want protection for Dalkey quarry site

Council officers who ordered diggers into a Dublin landmark considered a Mecca for climbing may be banned from interfering with it in the future

Eithne Shortall, The Sunday Times
Published: 27 June 2010

Mountaineers are calling for Dalkey quarry, a Dublin landmark and beauty spot, to become a protected site, after the council knocked down sections of rock climbs that date back to the foundation of the sport in Ireland.

Several of Ireland’s most popular climbing routes were damaged when Dun Laoghaire-Rathdown county council removed ground-level rocks with a digger last month. The quarry has been used for rock climbing since the 1940s and contains more than 300 climbs, measuring up to 115ft in height, on mainly granite rock.

Mountaineering Ireland is calling on the council to grant its first Special Amenity Area Order (SAAO) to the site to prevent further destruction.

Karl Boyle, its chief officer, said the council had taken the decision to remove the rocks without consulting recreational users. He described the site as a “Mecca for climbing” that attracts enthusiasts from across Ireland.

“This is about the future of the quarry. We want to see it preserved as a recreational amenity,” he said.

“Each route is named and described in terms of how you climb it. People have lost sweat, tears and blood on these routes. There is a huge link between the climber and the rock and we want to insure that what happened doesn’t happen again.”

Mountaineering Ireland submitted its proposal for a SAAO two weeks ago and was told that it would receive a reply shortly. While the council has never granted an SAAO before, there is precedence for it in Fingal, where the Liffey Valley and Howth have been granted the status.

A spokesman from Dun Laoghaire-Rathdown’s parks section said that it was investigating the feasibility of granting two such orders, one of which includes the quarry.

He said the council wanted to ensure that issues such as public access and recreational activities did not affect the conservation of the heritage landscape.

“In early May, council staff became aware of a small rock outcrop that was considered to be in danger of collapse. Immediate action was taken in the interest of public safety,” he said.

Boyle said that the council was aware of the value of the quarry and that the two bodies were working to find a positive outcome.

“It’s a resource that doesn’t require any refurbishment and little maintenance, and what makes it unusual is that it has public transport right to the door, in the form of the Dart. Within an urban area, we have an authentic amenity. It’s a fantastic resource,” he said.

Dalkey quarry was used for quarrying in the 1800s and is now part of Killiney Hill public park. Dalkey Quarry, a rock-climbing guide, is in its seventh edition. The book’s publication in 1942 was key to developing the sport in Ireland.

The site is popular with climbers because the quarry has been disused for more than 150 years, meaning that there is little loose rock.

This article appeared in The Sunday Times on 27 June 2010.


Mountaineering Ireland had further communication with DLRCC on Friday, 11 June. DLRCC indicated that they will be responding to MI's Dalkey Quarry management proposals shortly. 

MI will continue to keep members informed on this matter.

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Mountaineering Ireland met with DLRCC again on the 27 May in Sports HQ. This meeting was the next step in developing a management plan for Dalkey Quarry where climbing and the Quarry (in its present state) can be preserved. 

DLRCC is now fully aware of the significance of Dalkey Quarry and the need to engage fully with the climbing community. This can only be achieved by MI continuing to pursue a management plan for Dalkey Quarry. Communication from DLRCC to MI to the climbing community is critical and MI will ensure that regular contact is maintained and a solid relationship develops for the good of climbing.

As part of the awareness effort MI has invited the Minister for Sport and local TD, Mary Hanafin to visit Dalkey Quarry and see the wonderful recreation amenity it is and the impact it has on participation in climbing. Also, MI has invited DLRCC management and staff to a taster session for them to experience climbing in Dalkey.

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10 May 2010

Mountaineering Ireland and local climbers met with representatives of Dun Laoighaire Rathdown County Council (DLRCC) this afternoon, Monday 10 May. The meeting took place at Killiney Hill car park followed by a walk through Dalkey Quarry. In attendance were Karl Boyle, Helen Lawless, Howard Hebblethwaite, Stephen McMullan, Terry O’ Connor, Terrence O’ Neill and Calvin Torrans. Les Moore, Rory O’ Sullivan and Jim Ellis represented DLRCC.

The objective of the meeting was to establish how work was carried out on the quarry after receiving information that all works were complete for the summer, to identify any further work DLRCC has planned and to ensure that all future work is done with the knowledge and approval of the local climbers.

DLRCC claimed that safety within the quarry was of paramount concern and action taken “was for the safety of those using the quarry”. They recognise that their actions within the quarry must be taken in full consultation with Mountaineering Ireland and local climbers. It has been agreed that local climbers will supervise clean-up work this Wednesday.

DLRCC agreed today to the development of a management plan for Dalkey Quarry. Mountaineering Ireland have also pressed for the recognition of Dalkey Quarry as a site of climbing heritage and therefore fully protected in its current form.

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10 May 2010

Mountaineering Ireland received correspondence from DLRCC on Friday, 07 May that no further works would be carried out on Dalkey Quarry.

MI has demanded the immediate suspension of any works at Dalkey Quarry and that a full disclosure of planned work is provided without delay.

MI has arranged to meet with DLRCC this afternoon, Monday, 10 May. In attendance will include Karl Boyle, Helen Lawless, Stephen McMullan, Terrence O' Neill and Calvin Torrans.

Further updates will be provided.

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